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I just shoot my first test shots on my 8x10 camera using X-ray film.

Hello guys! I haven't finished reading this thread about X-ray film but i'm sure it's worth the read.Д«y the way, i have some questions. As you can see, I have not read through most of the posts here but I am slowly catching up! 'green'), exposure, type of developer, etc. I was wondering what experience people have with rendering continuous tone with xray film and if what suggestions people might have, type of film ('blue' vs. The incredible rendition of continuous tone of the Tech Pan makes me want to try again with large format, but, the film is essentially unavailable now. Many years ago (almost 30 now!) I was shooting Kodak Technical Pan at 25ASA and processed in Technidol Liquid. Also, are there more forum on the subject of xray film? I have a general question about the use of xray film: Is there a summary page for all the great discussion which has happened in this forum? I am only aware of another forum on xray film here, the one on Images taken with xray film. I am finishing a basement darkroom and planning to get into large format, mostly 4x5 and a little 8x10. I have been watching this Thread for a while. Ideally, you should be collecting your silvery-infused bleach liquid in a container somewhere, for electrolysis at some point to reclaim the silver metal (tiny bit of $$ but also stopping it from polluting. Please note that this is probably terrible for the environment. Bleach fumes can be strong, and at this point, the film is developed already, so light doesn't matter.ДЄfter a few sheets of practice, I quickly got to the point where I have a nearly 100% success rate in not accidentally bleaching any portion of the good emulsion side whatsoever.

If you're in a confined space with a less-than-stellar fan, like an old bathroom, i suggest opening the door before doing this. Now rinse in distilled water or dip in photo flo or whatever you normally would do, and hang to dry. Then pry up one corner of the film with fingernails, flip it over and flush directly in the faucet in case any bleach got behind at all. i also always sweep the bottom corners first, to minimize the time that bleach is at the top of the glass and is thus being potentially pulled under the film by gravity etc.Дrop sponge in the sink and immediately flush hands and film and the entire glass sheet with copious amounts of water (few seconds of faucet running and splashing it around). that's why you want a firm hold on the corner opposite your sweeping direction, so you don't shift the film unnecessarily. You can see the emulsion being removed, so if 20 sweeps doesn't do it then keep going till it's gone.ДЄvoid moving the negative around on the glass, because it can glide into and over an area with bleach on it. Repeat 20 swipes, then hold another corner and sweep the opposite of that 20 times, for all 4 corners. I hold one corner of the negative with my left hand and sweep middle to edge on the opposite corner and then pick up the sponge and return to middle again (so you're never pushing from outside in, which could push bleach under the lip).

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Then I use a common cleaning sponge (soft side) with some bleach squirted on the edge full strength. This water seal alone is sufficient to keep bleach off of the good side if you're careful.

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Then splash some water on the surface, slap the film good-side-down, rub it around a little bit to free air bubbles (if your glass is clean, this won't scratch it at all), and push and sweep with my fingertips to also release air bubbles, leading to a decent seal. I think it is described in this thread a few times, but yes, you strip it after processing is all completed (because that's when the other emulsion is most hardened and resilient).ДЄll i do is lay a piece of glass in my sink so it is diagonal. afterwards strip the back side of the negative with bleach?Дoesn't it affect the emulsion on the good side, or is it just a matter of carefully bleaching? How do you do this?

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